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In ti bi rad vozil valove?

24/09/2010

Tu je štorija o mukotrpnih začetkih wannabe waveriderja, ki sem jo objavil na Boards forumu. Napisana je v angleščini in bo taka (to je neprevedena) tudi ostala. Saj znate angleško, mar ne?

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My wave story isn’t so Cinderella like. Back in the days I was more like a flat water addict. Sailing in super-flat spot was my goal. I dreamt about spots like Sotavento, Alacati or Coche but all I got was Naxos lagoon and Pounda at Paros-AntiParos straight. Still the spots which have a special place in my mind.

The first major click happened when I’ve realised I can not sail with 115l board (Fanatic Ultra Bee – anyone remember?) on 30kt winds so the next after summer purchase was Mistral Wave 70 (The yellow orange design with power box) and when I rode it the first time it was like revelation to me ‘cos it could be sailed in 0,5-1,0 brutal home spot chop without problems while not being crashed (unlike with 95l Axxis I had at that time).

Now that I’d acquired the wave board the real wave story begins while I still wasn’t aware of it – remember, I’m still a flat water addict. So I went to Palamos (Spain) accompanying my nations sailing team for Xmas race and during the regatta time there was a day with nice Garbo wind so I went windsurfing. I had no expertise in no waves so far so the result was being brutally pounded on the gnarly shorebreak after semi successful launch behind the pier. Big thanks to locals who grabbed my gear and dragged it away from the impact zone. I did survive as well as my gear. 4 months of recovering my ego and I’m of to Sardinia (Italy). One day a Mistral winds started to blow and threw massive 4m waves on Sardinias NW shore. We decided to skip the first beach we went to (Marina Delle Rose) and we went to supposedly safer one (Vignola). And there it was like 5m shorebreak. But I’ve studied it well and went out and in no problem. The only drawback was it lasted only out and in ‘cos the wind dropped just in the time I went out and back in.

The next wave encounter I had was for Xmas visit to Puzzitedu, Sicily. Now that was a real mind breaker. One day on the outside there were at least 4m waves with possibility of about 7-10 DTL bottom turns. And once you’ve done them there was a straight flat highway back to the line and than do it all over again. A dream of all dreams. At least that was told to me, as I’ve never passed the gnarly shorebreak out to the line. Instead I’ve spent half of my day just struggling to get back to the beach in unbelievable strong current after being washed from the third wave like a rubber duck (why is it always the 3rd wave that spits you back to the shore?). There was no saddest person on the beach that afternoon than me. Still I went out for more. And got pounded the same way as the first time. But with a big difference; I came out of the water with a huge smile. I said to myself: If it is meant to be, than it is!

And the summertime came and we went to the waveiest spot in Greece – Prasonisi, Rhodes. And guess what; the first day with waves I went out and got pounded again on the first reach and being white washed for at least 10 minutes until the shore saved me.

So at this point you must think of me as I was thinking of myself back then; The Sea doesn’t like me playing around and it spits me out every time I show up with my ugly face. But I kept on trying. And eventually I was blessed with very rare summer swell in Moulay. I still remember the building of the wave behind me and how I was waiting for the perfect moment to drop in while suddenly old friend Antonio sailed down from upwind and I was thinking like WTF? I was waiting my whole life to catch a wave like this and now I need to back off? But after few eyecatches he just yelled at me; GO! GO! GO! and I charged down and had a ride of my life. Actually we both had ‘cos the wave was breaking so perfectly it allowed both of us to ride it at the same time.

And that’s it! That is what it is worth living for and it will live in my mind forevah!

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